Where 'Cutting Edge' Is Sharpened

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Gay Tokyo, A Thriving Subculture Of Sophistication

You think London, Paris, and New York are the world leaders in fashion, arts, and culture?  Close your eyes and think of Tokyo.  Despite gay Tokyo's notoriously low-key public profile and its inconsistency in embracing its international brethren, there exists a huge and thriving culture based on hundreds of years of history, from ancient time to the samurai (who called male-male love bi-do, meaning 'the beautiful way') and on to today's icons like...well, maybe that's why samurai remains so popular in contemporary Japan.

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Tokyo is a city of surprises.  One surprise is that it is not really a city, but rather an agglomeration of cities, more like villages, each with a different personality.  Unlike Los Angeles, another city of cities, Tokyo's neighbourhoods are linked by an excellent rail transportation system mirroring the freeways on the other side of the Pacific.  Considering it is one of the biggest urban areas in the world, it is amazing what you don't hear.  Car horns, sirens, construction noises—these things are remarkable by their absence.  There are lots of construction sites in Tokyo, but they use quiet equipment.  No one honks horns here.  The irritating and unnecessarily loud back-up noises emitted by the garbage trucks of Sydney are replaced by electronic versions of Beethoven's Fifth in their Japanese counterparts.

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Many Japanese arts are well known outside Japan, though the complexity and layers of nuance that make these arts so meaningful are less frequently known.  Kabuki theatre is one of the most famous; it has centuries of history, including gay history.  All female roles are played by men; women do not perform Kabuki at all, and the most celebrated actors are the ones who carry off male and female roles with equal aplomb, though talent is not necessarily indicative of orientation.  A theatrical experience at the grand Kabuki-za Theater is a uniquely Japanese experience not to be missed; English commentary via earphone is provided to help follow the storyline.

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Despite the number of world-class attractions, Tokyo's biggest draw is intangible; the vigour of the nation pours through the city, resulting in an abundance of creativity both technological and artistic that leaves the rest of the world wondering why they didn't think of it first.  Senso-ji Temple and its promenade Nakamise-dori are impressive, but standing in the plaza outside Shibuya Station and feeling the immense waves of energy from the crowd and the architecture.  Ever see the film Koyyanisqaatsi?  The scenes of streets packed with pedestrians crossing the street were filmed in Shibuya.  Among all the locals are many gay foreigners who have come to Japan for a variety of reasons, not least the culture.  From English teachers to magazine photographers, there is a whole sub-subculture of non-Japanese gay people living and working in Tokyo; there are many networks both social and professional, and people are generally happy to offer information as to make the most of your time in the city.

A completely different vibe is found in Meiji-jingu Park, where urban life seems worlds away from the peaceful pedestrian boulevards and the tranquillity of Meiji-jingu shrine, a favourite site for pre-wedding photos for brides attired in traditional ceremonial wear.  At the south entrance to Meiji-jingu Park, one finds the weekend agglomeration of Harajuku girls in all their gloriously outlandish attire.  Their peculiar interpretation of an age-old problem (suburban teenage girls crying out for attention not given at home resorting to extreme measures to garner desired attention—or maybe they just like to dress up) has been quite the scene for years and is one that many a suburban LGBT youth can relate to.  If for no other reason, come see them for inspiration for your next drag show.

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Ueno Park and the Imperial Palace East Gardens are also worthy of your downtime.  Ueno Park is popular for the rich collections in the National Museum Of Western Art and the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum Of Art, as well as the Tokyo National Museum (Tokyo Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan), repository of the world's biggest collection of Japanese art; it alone can easily occupy a full day. 

The affinity for all things French remains very strong in Japan; during the French Impressionism craze that swept Japan during the height of the country's economic power in the 1980's, many museums and collectors acquired important works of French art,  The country is now awash in gouache, so if you are looking west in the east, visit Sompo Museum of Art to see Vincent Van Gogh's Sunflowers, representative of the height of wealth of the Japanese bubble economy. 

Tokyo's landmark Prada Building

All kinds of small museums abound in Tokyo and offer insight into everything from woodblock ink prints (Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Art Museum), to parasites of the intestine (Meguro Parasitological Museum).  Seek and you shall find.  If you are part of the manga and anime cultures, Tokyo is Heaven.  Japanese cultural phenomena have long influenced Western life, even back in the days of Godzilla (there is a monument to the beast near Hibiya Park).  Nowadays, manga are everywhere and manga style is part of the mainstream. 

Some of Tokyo's most enjoyable pastimes are free.  Views of Mount Fuji by day and the glitter of city lights by night are just an elevator ride away in one of the many skyscraper observation decks.  Free.  Tour of the grounds of the Imperial Palace?  Free.  Corporate art collections?  Free.  Offbeat places like the Ace World Bag Museum (a must for Louis Vuitton aficionados), the Stationery Museum and the aforementioned Parasitological Museum?  Free. 

Also free is wandering the Shinjuku Ni-chome area, home to Tokyo's most famous gay district.  It's all very easygoing here, and places like Advocates are so popular that the clientele spills onto the street as the crowd thickens on weekend evenings. 

If you time your visit right, you can catch some of the entertainment at the annual Tokyo International Lesbian and Gay Film Festival, which takes place each year in July.  No matter when you come, though, it's worthwhile to make the short trip to nearby Saitama to see the extraordinary John Lennon Museum, the only official museum celebrating the life of the Beatle and peace advocate.  Hurry, though; the museum's lease in the Saitama Super Arena complex is expiring this year and the museum will close its doors on 30 September 2010.

Last note:  Chinese Café 8.  It's across the street from the Grand Hyatt.  You'll love the décor...and that's all I will say.

Visit Utopia Asia's Japan pages for up-to-date information about gay and lesbian Japan; the lesbian scene as its own entity is quite sophisticated and well developed. 

MORE INFORMATION

Japan National Tourism Organization
www.jnto.co.jp/eng

reservations for tours of the Imperial Palace
www.kunaicho.go.jp/eindex.html

For a complete authentic Japanese experience, try staying at the understatedly elegant Sukerokunoyado Sadachiyo, the best of Tokyo's traditional ryokans.